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NPC to unveil new Niagara Glen Bouldering Policy on Oct 1st

By Access

The long awaited announcement of the Niagara Parks Commission’s (NPC) bouldering policy will be made at 10am on October 1st at the Niagara Glen Nature Centre (the building containing the new nature centre and store that is above the Glen). The OAC has provided recommendations and suggestions to the NPC over the last couple of years. Our understanding is that this will be a one year trial launch of the bouldering policy. Due to the timing of this announcement a more formal launch will also be made in the Spring when the Nature Centre reopens.

There will be a permit required to boulder in the Glen, which includes a signed liability waiver and an annual permit fee of $20. Initially waivers and permits will only be available at the Nature Centre (which will be closing for the season) and the Butterfly Conservatory (year round). The NPC is working to downloadable waiver forms on their website. The OAC still has some concerns about the specific details and implementation of the policy but the OAC is encouraged by the NPC’s willingness to both listen to our concerns and continue to work with the OAC.  The OAC is very optimistic that a mutually agreeable final plan will emerge over the next year.
We will be posting the new policy as soon as it is made public.
Please show your support for the NPC and OAC by being one of the first boulderers to purchase you permit!
Official annoucement here: http://ontarioaccesscoalition.com/downloads/Niagara-Glen-Bouldering-Advisory.doc

Updated announcement: http://ontarioaccesscoalition.com/downloads/Niagara-Glen-Bouldering-Announcement.doc

More info here: http://www.niagaraparks.com/

Additionally, the Friends of the Glen are organizing a Glen hike and clean up, for anyone interested, to coincide with this announcement.

Crag Access status update

By Access

The Crag Access list download document has been updated with the latest access information. You can download the detailed pdf for full information here. 
 
The OAC researches and discusses climbing access directly with Park and Conservation staff, land owners, and other resource managers to provide the climbing community with the most accurate access information. The download includes updated access information for popular areas such as Lion’s Head, the Swamp, and Devil’s Glen amongst others.

Please note that while the webpage is being populated with the most current information, climbers should refer to the downloadable pdf document for info about Ontario’s crags and boulders during this time.  The careful reader may have also noticed that ice climbing areas have been removed from the list. A separate dedicated document is being developed to inform best practice for those that enjoy swinging tools into the frozen medium! Keep checking back – there’s more to come!

OAC Wins Sponorship to Attend Access Fund's National Access & Stewardship Summit

By Uncategorized

The OAC will be attending  the 2011 National Access and Stewardship Conference hosted by the Access Fund.  This year’s conference is in Golden, Colorado and runs from Friday, September 30 to Sunday, October 2.  The conference represents a great opportunity to network, learn and provide insight into facilitating climbing access in Ontario.  The OAC is able to attend this conference thanks to financial support from two great organizations.
 
The OAC has been awarded funding to attend the conference from the Access Fund and Mountain Equipment Co-op.   The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock, ice, mountaineering, and bouldering. www.theaccessfund.org
Canada’s Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC) has stepped forward with additional funding to support our representation at the conference.  A familiar retailer to most climbers, MEC’s support has been instrumental in helping climbing access in Ontario. www.mec.ca
 
Attending on behalf of the OAC is Director, Renu Monica Chattha. Renu’s work with the OAC  has kept popular crags in the Beaver Valley/Collingwood area open and promoted climbing as eco-tourism in Grey, Bruce and Sauble counties. The OAC would like to sincerely thank the Access Fund, MEC and Renu for making this possible.
 
The 2011 National Access & Stewardship Summit presentations will cover a range of topics, including stewardship and education, local support and mobilization, land conservation, and public policy.  The educational summit  brings activists and volunteers together to learn about ways to preserve access to places we love and protect them for future generations. To learn more about the summit follow the link below.
http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.7553843/k.C86A/2011_National_Access__Stewardship_Summit.htm

OAC Wins Sponorship to Attend Access Fund’s National Access & Stewardship Summit

By Uncategorized

The OAC will be attending  the 2011 National Access and Stewardship Conference hosted by the Access Fund.  This year’s conference is in Golden, Colorado and runs from Friday, September 30 to Sunday, October 2.  The conference represents a great opportunity to network, learn and provide insight into facilitating climbing access in Ontario.  The OAC is able to attend this conference thanks to financial support from two great organizations.
 
The OAC has been awarded funding to attend the conference from the Access Fund and Mountain Equipment Co-op.   The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock, ice, mountaineering, and bouldering. www.theaccessfund.org
Canada’s Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC) has stepped forward with additional funding to support our representation at the conference.  A familiar retailer to most climbers, MEC’s support has been instrumental in helping climbing access in Ontario. www.mec.ca
 
Attending on behalf of the OAC is Director, Renu Monica Chattha. Renu’s work with the OAC  has kept popular crags in the Beaver Valley/Collingwood area open and promoted climbing as eco-tourism in Grey, Bruce and Sauble counties. The OAC would like to sincerely thank the Access Fund, MEC and Renu for making this possible.
 
The 2011 National Access & Stewardship Summit presentations will cover a range of topics, including stewardship and education, local support and mobilization, land conservation, and public policy.  The educational summit  brings activists and volunteers together to learn about ways to preserve access to places we love and protect them for future generations. To learn more about the summit follow the link below.
http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.7553843/k.C86A/2011_National_Access__Stewardship_Summit.htm

OAC Wins Sponorship to Attend Access Fund's National Access & Stewardship Summit

By Uncategorized

The OAC will be attending  the 2011 National Access and Stewardship Conference hosted by the Access Fund.  This year’s conference is in Golden, Colorado and runs from Friday, September 30 to Sunday, October 2.  The conference represents a great opportunity to network, learn and provide insight into facilitating climbing access in Ontario.  The OAC is able to attend this conference thanks to financial support from two great organizations.
 
The OAC has been awarded funding to attend the conference from the Access Fund and Mountain Equipment Co-op.   The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock, ice, mountaineering, and bouldering. www.theaccessfund.org
Canada’s Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC) has stepped forward with additional funding to support our representation at the conference.  A familiar retailer to most climbers, MEC’s support has been instrumental in helping climbing access in Ontario. www.mec.ca
 
Attending on behalf of the OAC is Director, Renu Monica Chattha. Renu’s work with the OAC  has kept popular crags in the Beaver Valley/Collingwood area open and promoted climbing as eco-tourism in Grey, Bruce and Sauble counties. The OAC would like to sincerely thank the Access Fund, MEC and Renu for making this possible.
 
The 2011 National Access & Stewardship Summit presentations will cover a range of topics, including stewardship and education, local support and mobilization, land conservation, and public policy.  The educational summit  brings activists and volunteers together to learn about ways to preserve access to places we love and protect them for future generations. To learn more about the summit follow the link below.
http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.7553843/k.C86A/2011_National_Access__Stewardship_Summit.htm

Old Baldy update

By News

Replacement of aging hardware at Old Baldy continues this year with great progress being made. Volunteers have been working hard with the support of the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority and hardware supplied by MEC.

Below is a list of the routes completed this year so far; check our older posts for updates of the work that has been done previously.

**Please remember that climbing at Old Baldy requires the purchase of an annual permit and following some very straightforward guidelines. Click here for the climbing permit application form and list of guidelines.

Sugar and Spice (Mixed) – 3 bolts/shares anchors with Lapalacian Ballroom
Exit Stage Right – Anchors and bolts
The Oatsman’s Contract – Anchors and Bolts
The Good (Trad) – Anchors
The Bad (Trad) – Share Anchors with The Good
The Ugly (Trad) – Anchors
French Revolution – Anchors and Bolts
Black Magic Woman (Mixed) – Anchors and Bolts
Welcome to my Nightmare – Anchors and Bolts
Conan – Anchors and Bolts 
Frenzy – Anchors and Bolts
Cobra – Anchors and Bolts
The Anniversary (Trad) – Anchors  *Note* the anchors of the Anniversary were placed independently and not part of the MEC rebolting project, information is included here to update the community to the condition of these bolts.