On Saturday, November 24th, True North Climbing gym hosted the 2012
Reel Rock film tour. Volunteers from the OAC were on hand at this great
event to help raise awareness of climbing access in Ontario. Thanks goes
to the many existing and new OAC members who took the time to visit our
table. Additional thanks to our very supporting Corporate member, True
North Climbing for including the OAC as part of the Toronto Reel Rock
Tour.
If you haven’t yet taken the time to become an OAC member please take a
moment to sign-up (see the Membership tab) and add your name to the long
list of climbers in support of sustainable climbing in Ontario.
Conservation Halton (CH) manages climbing policy for Rattlesnake point, Mt. Nemo, Kelso, among others. These crags are home to hundreds of routes that have been enjoyed by climbers for decades. The OAC has just received the following email from Conservation Halton regarding the installation and recent removal of fixed hardware at Mount Nemo:
“Hi guys,
This was just brought to my attention. I thought I would forward to you as there are two points here that are bothersome. One is that bolts are removed by someone and the second is the call to replace the anchors without consultation with Conservation Halton. I would really like to try and get a handle on this so that bolts are not replaced until we see Nigel’s report and discuss the recommendations that he might have.
I am hoping that the OAC may take this matter over and bring some calming affect to this situation. Would you mind seeing what can be done from your end.
Ron Kindt
Conservation Halton”
The OAC would like to request that the individuals involved in this matter respect the wishes of the Land Manager who is, and has been for many years, a leading supporter of climbing at some of the province’s most popular cliffs. The OAC is meeting with CH in January and we are hopeful that a mutually agreed upon plan can be approved for the Spring.
The OAC would like to extend its gratitude to Steve Swenson, who donated the honorarium he recently received from the ACC to support the OAC. Steve was in Toronto recently for the Toronto Section of the Alpine Club of Canada’s AGM. As inspiring as his Saser Kangri II climb was (for which Mark Richey, Freddie Wilkinson and he won the coveted 2012 Piolet D’Or), the real highlight of the evening was hearing Steve advocate for the value of beloved partners that you put before yourself and trust with your life – both in life and in climbing. Well done!
A number of members of the climbing community have contacted the OAC regarding concern over the removal of fixed protection at Mount Nemo.
Through 2011 and 2012, the OAC has worked with Conservation Halton (CH) in conducting an environmental assessment to determine a climbing anchor strategy at Mount Nemo. The strategy aims to eliminate cliff-top impact, manage mid-face impact caused by climbing, and maximize climber safety.
An ecologist from CH documented the condition of the entire cliff line managed by CH, with the help of an OAC representative. The report from this assessment, which is currently pending, will guide the development of the strategy by CH and OAC.
The OAC continues to collaborate with CH in the official process to develop a detailed anchor strategy for Mount Nemo. Once the strategy is approved, we anticipate inviting volunteer work teams to implement the strategy, and hope to enter into potential funding agreements for the cost of hardware. Modification of the cliff-top, mid-cliff or cliff-bottom environments jeopardizes the process.
The OAC remains committed to maximizing climbing opportunities while collaborating with CH to help them effectively manage their properties. CH is a leader in incorporating climbing management into the operational models that they manage.
The OAC’s Ontario Crags calendar for 2013 is available now at the Mountain Equipment Coop in Toronto (in the climbing department) and, this year, at the Barrie store too!
Featuring images of some of the best rock and ice climbing and bouldering crags in Ontario, the calendar will make a great gift for any climber on your list.
A big thanks to all of you who submitted photos! And thanks for your support of the OAC through your purchase! Here’s a sneak preview:
On Saturday October 27th, McMaster’s Climbing Club braved the rain to help clean up Mount Kelso in Halton as part of the club’s first ever Clean and Climb event. Although the climbing was postponed due to the weather, the clean up was a great success! Members of the club made quick work of the cliff edge and base bringing back mattresses, wooden frames, beer bottles and much more. The clean up even extended beyond the cliff to include sections of the Bruce Trail.
The club executives would like to thank the Ontario Access Coalition, Halton Conservation and Mountain Equipment Coop for their help and support in organizing this event and look forward to future, similar events at cliffs across Ontario. All are welcome (including Mr. Sunshine)!