EDIT: Climbing has been re-opened as of July 29, 2016. Climbers must sign the Code of Conduct before climbing at Bon Echo.

Bon Echo Code of Conduct

We are passing along the following message from the Alpine Club of Canada, Toronto Section.

The Superintendent of Bon Echo Provincial Park has informed the Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section that starting immediately all climbing has been suspended until further notice.

The suspension was a result of a recent incident, and no one was hurt. The board of the Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section and the Bon Echo Committee are collaborating closely with the Park to open access as soon as possible.

Weekends at the Bon Echo hut are subsequently canceled until further notice.

Until the matter is resolved please respect the wishes of the Park and refrain from climbing at Bon Echo. We will let you know as soon as the suspension is lifted.

We appreciate your cooperation and we look forward to climbing at Bon Echo again soon. If you have any questions please contact either the Board of Directors (membership@alpineclubtoronto.ca) or the Bon Echo committee (bonecho@alpineclubtoronto.ca).

Sincerely,
The Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section Board of Directors

The second Grey/Bruce Rock Climbing and Bouldering Forum took place on May 20 in Walkerton, Ontario. The forum aims to promote a coordinated approach to rock climbing and bouldering as recreational activities, where appropriate, in the Grey/Bruce region. Participating agencies at the second meeting included the Alpine Club of Canada, County of Bruce, Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry (Owen Sound, Midhurst District, Peterborough), the Ontario Access Coalition, Ontario Parks, Parks Canada, and Regional Tourism Organization 7.

Building off the momentum of the first meeting, the second meeting focused on the following discussion points:

1. The way access to climbing areas is being framed in current/forthcoming Ontario rock climbing guides.
2. The thriving climbing gym culture in the GTA and southern Ontario and how it will likely increase climber visits to Grey/Bruce.
3. Climbing activity management plan discussions for areas that will be developing new/revised management plans over the next several years (eg. Lion’s Head, Devils Glen).
4. Bolt usage and replacement at Ontario climbing areas.
5. Adding signage at selected Grey/Bruce climbing areas to promote environmental stewardship.
6. Putting into action a sustainable parking plan for Devils Glen.
7. Promotion of Grey/Bruce communities at this year’s Beaver Valley Climbing Festival.
8. Ontario Parks Lion’s Head cliff-face analysis to begin this summer with the use of drones.

There was also ample time for informal Q & A between managers and OAC representatives. The continued relationship-building between all agencies is positive. The OAC views the second meeting as a success and looks forward to continued collaboration and meetings with members of all of the participating agencies.

As always, stay vigilant about being great stewards of the climbing environment. If you or someone you know needs a Leave No Trace refresher see our post from the fall.

The 2016 Beaver Valley Climbing Festival is coming soon. Here is our list of clinics, which are included with the festival price: a great deal! There are clinics for both new and less-new climbers, so look through the list, see if you are interested in any of them, and sign up with the clinic providers.

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/bvcf2016-clinics

June 17th marked the official re-opening of Cape Croker to climbing and bouldering after a year of closure. The First Nationas Band Council and the Cape Croker section of the Bruce Trail Conservancy, rebuilding the Sydney Bay Boardwalk, were present for the re-opening.

Cape Croker section of the Bruce Trail Conservancy

Cape Croker boasts on-site camping, showers, and a store, and serves as a convenient stop for climbers on the way to Lion’s Head or Halfway Log Dump (Bruce Peninsula National Park). With its short approach and numerous trad and sport lines, Croker is an excellent crag on the Escarpment situated in a beautiful location. Non-climbing activities include nearby international-level mountain biking in Purple Valley as well as paddleboard and kayak rentals.

Nik Hoediono, first lead at re-opened Croker, "Ivy League"

Cape Croker has been operated by the Chippewas of Nawash Unceded First Nation since its inception as a park in 1967, protecting its intrinsic beauty and generating on-Reserve employment. The Ontario Access Coalition, through portfolio managers Drs. Harry Hoediono and Patrick Lam, spent most of 2015 negotiating with Park officials and the Band Council, and reached an agreement about re-opening the Park to climbing this spring. Gus Alexandropoulos provided invaluable support in the form of guidebook recognition and advertising donations.

The Cape Croker re-opening illustrates how eco-friendly citizens (the OAC, BTC and First Nations Band Council) can work together to promote eco-tourism and eco-sport on the Bruce Peninsula.

Josiah Keeshig (office), Nathan Keeshig (Park Superintendent), Harry Hoediono

After the official re-opening, Dr. Hoediono met with new Park Superintendent Nathan Keeshig and discussed steps forward: signage, waivers to measure climber usage, and cliff cleanups. They also agreed to hold future meetings on promoting rock climbing as one of the Park’s eco-friendly adventure sports. Dr. Hoediono and helpers also carried out the thankless tasks needed to maintain a climbing site, including trimming vegetation and inspecting in-situ gear.

Please enjoy climbing at Cape Croker, heed all posted signs, climb with care, and be respectful of the privilege of climbing in such a beautiful area.

As presented at our 2016 AGM:

OAC Access Sends, 2015-2016 [.pdf]