Our News

Grey County has notified the OAC in response to our inquiries that they are now welcoming visitors to their outdoor areas! Grey Sauble has also confirmed that rock climbing is no longer prohibited by Provincial Order. With this news, we are happy to announce that climbing access is now open at Metcalfe, The Swamp, and Old Baldy, without any travel advisories.

Please check our crag status document for updates.

The North Bruce Peninsula, where Lions Head is located, has also officially announced it is welcoming visitors! If you choose to climb there please be mindful that Lions Head is an advanced crag and access there is extremely sensitive. The OAC has been informed of the temporary removal of all moderate Latvian Ledge routes for the purposes of rehabilitation. These routes represent the bulk of moderate routes at Lions Head. Please ensure your plans do not require these routes to be available, and remember that top roping at Lions Head is not permitted. It may be difficult to secure overnight accommodations at this time as many campgrounds are not yet open, so plan ahead before you go. Car camping is not allowed and people caught doing so will be ticketed.

It is important to remember that although the province is beginning to open up again, COVID-19 still poses a serious threat to smaller communities. If you choose to climb, it is important to plan your outings responsibly. Take all necessary precautions, follow our guidelines on how to climb during this pandemic, and enjoy some good weather!

Today, the Ontario government released a framework for Stage 1 of reopening the province.  While this is exciting news, it is not yet clear how our crags are affected by this latest announcement.  We are reviewing the information and reaching out to land managers.  We aim to make a statement by Saturday. 

Until then, please exercise good judgment, do your research, and if in doubt, err on the side of caution to avoid negatively impacting access.

Brock University has teamed up with ALIVE Outdoors to study the COVID-19 pandemic and its impacts on Canadian outdoor recreation participation patterns. Study participants are asked to complete a survey which takes about 15-20 minutes to complete and focuses on how outdoor recreation affects their physical, emotional and overall health. It’s an opportunity to provide land managers and outdoor recreation service providers with information about the impacts of the recent recreation area closures. It will also provide insight into how outdoor enthusiasts feel about the reopening (or not) of these spaces.

The survey is only open until the 15th of May. If you have the time, please fill it out to ensure all outdoor recreationists are represented. This is your opportunity to tell land managers how much you value the outdoors!

Participate in the study here: https://brock.ca1.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_2nP3retfFIYnuWp

With cautious optimism, Ontario is set to open Provincial Parks and conservation reserves starting this week. This is exciting news, as the ability to enjoy the outdoors is vital to both physical and mental health!

It is important to remember that recreational activities will be limited to walking, hiking, biking and birdwatching. Climbing is currently not a permitted activity. Park usage will be monitored to ensure proper physical distancing protocols are being followed, and we need to respect the situation to prevent these spaces from closing to visitors again.

For more information and to determine if parks near you are open, see http://www.ontarioparks.com/covid19

Conservation Areas on the other hand, such as Rattlesnake Point and Mount Nemo, are individually owned or protected by Conservation Authorities. They are not operated by the provincial government, and will not be opening with the Provincial Parks and Conservation Reserves.

Each individual Conservation Authority will determine when, and under what circumstances, their Conservation Areas will open to the public. So far, climbing is not permitted at any Conservation Area. The full list of Ontario Conservation Authorities can be found here https://conservationontario.ca/conservation-authorities/find-a-conservation-authority/.

We are working directly with land managers at the various crags, and will update the community whenever there are changes. For now, we must respect our relationships with the land managers in order to not create long lasting access issues.

Thank you for your patience and continued support!

We want to give a sincere thank you to everyone who joined us for the meeting! We had 139 people tune in, and enjoyed a very thoughtful discussion about how the current pandemic is affecting the province. We are grateful to have such an invested and supportive community from all over Ontario.

Some key takeaways:

Please do not climb outdoors.

Climbing outside in Ontario is subject to restrictions by multiple levels of government. Any green spaces which are not explicitly closed to the public are open for walkthrough access only. This applies to all green spaces, including crown land and crags which normally do not have open access. Climbing is not considered walkthrough access, as it involves staying in one place for an extended period of time and touching shared surfaces. Please see here for more details.

Choosing to climb when it is not permitted by your local government may result in climbing being banned.

Green spaces are being patrolled, and you are liable to be ticketed for not following the rules. If the climbing community develops a bad reputation now, we may lose access permanently to some of our favourite crags.

We have a responsibility to keep each other informed about best practices.

The OAC is not a governing body. We are not here to enforce restrictions, but to educate. We believe that if a climber is informed about the impacts of their actions, they will make safe and responsible decisions. If you are aware of climbers who are not adhering to current restrictions and regulations, we recommend having an open and respectful discussion. Some people may not be aware of how the rules apply to smaller communities or certain lands. As provincial restrictions exist in addition to federal ones, it can be confusing to understand why Ontario is under a different set of sanctions than other provinces or territories. Approaching the topic with empathy will go a long way.

We will follow federal, provincial, and local legislation as things change.

The best thing we can do right now is to stay informed. As provincial guidelines are updated, we will do our best to communicate changes with the climbing community. The ways in which we are able to enjoy the outdoors will most likely change, and we will have to adapt our best practices to local regulations. We’re watching the situation closely and will let you know the second you can get out there!

Please feel free to reach out to us at any time if you have questions about climbing access, at info@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca.

A complete recording of the meeting is available below:

We hope everyone is staying safe, healthy, and sane these days! Unfortunately, with the extensions of the state of emergency due to the spread of COVID-19, it has become clear that we will not be able to safely host any group events this summer. This means that both the Rattlesnake Spring Fling and the Beaver Valley Climbing Festival are canceled for the 2020 season. As the Bruce Peninsula National Park is closed, our Halfway Log Dump volunteering opportunities are also on hold. We’re just as bummed as you are, and deeply missing connecting out on real rock. But we’re looking forward to more meaningful celebrations next summer!

To discuss this news and other ways in which climbing is being affected in Ontario at this moment, please join our Virtual Town Hall this Tuesday at 7PM! Click here to register ahead of time — registered attendees will receive the link to the meeting by email.

Mark your calendar for the OAC’s first ever Virtual Town Hall!

Next Tuesday, we’ll be discussing how the ongoing pandemic is affecting climbing in Ontario, and what we as climbers can do. If you have any questions about the safety of climbing during this time, or how our actions will affect the future of access at our local crags, this is your chance to speak face to face with us.

Can’t make the meeting, but want a certain topic addressed? Send questions ahead of time to info@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca. We’ll post a summary of the event afterwards.

—————————————————-

Meeting Details for the Zoom Webinar:
When: Apr 28, 2020 07:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada)
Topic: OAC Town Hall: Covid-19 & Climbing Access

Register in advance for this webinar:
https://us02web.zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_xixLz5VlSNWzaGp66GMRlw

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information about joining the webinar.