Our News

The second Grey/Bruce Rock Climbing and Bouldering Forum took place on May 20 in Walkerton, Ontario. The forum aims to promote a coordinated approach to rock climbing and bouldering as recreational activities, where appropriate, in the Grey/Bruce region. Participating agencies at the second meeting included the Alpine Club of Canada, County of Bruce, Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry (Owen Sound, Midhurst District, Peterborough), the Ontario Access Coalition, Ontario Parks, Parks Canada, and Regional Tourism Organization 7.

Building off the momentum of the first meeting, the second meeting focused on the following discussion points:

1. The way access to climbing areas is being framed in current/forthcoming Ontario rock climbing guides.
2. The thriving climbing gym culture in the GTA and southern Ontario and how it will likely increase climber visits to Grey/Bruce.
3. Climbing activity management plan discussions for areas that will be developing new/revised management plans over the next several years (eg. Lion’s Head, Devils Glen).
4. Bolt usage and replacement at Ontario climbing areas.
5. Adding signage at selected Grey/Bruce climbing areas to promote environmental stewardship.
6. Putting into action a sustainable parking plan for Devils Glen.
7. Promotion of Grey/Bruce communities at this year’s Beaver Valley Climbing Festival.
8. Ontario Parks Lion’s Head cliff-face analysis to begin this summer with the use of drones.

There was also ample time for informal Q & A between managers and OAC representatives. The continued relationship-building between all agencies is positive. The OAC views the second meeting as a success and looks forward to continued collaboration and meetings with members of all of the participating agencies.

As always, stay vigilant about being great stewards of the climbing environment. If you or someone you know needs a Leave No Trace refresher see our post from the fall.

The 2016 Beaver Valley Climbing Festival is coming soon. Here is our list of clinics, which are included with the festival price: a great deal! There are clinics for both new and less-new climbers, so look through the list, see if you are interested in any of them, and sign up with the clinic providers.

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/bvcf2016-clinics

June 17th marked the official re-opening of Cape Croker to climbing and bouldering after a year of closure. The First Nationas Band Council and the Cape Croker section of the Bruce Trail Conservancy, rebuilding the Sydney Bay Boardwalk, were present for the re-opening.

Cape Croker section of the Bruce Trail Conservancy

Cape Croker boasts on-site camping, showers, and a store, and serves as a convenient stop for climbers on the way to Lion’s Head or Halfway Log Dump (Bruce Peninsula National Park). With its short approach and numerous trad and sport lines, Croker is an excellent crag on the Escarpment situated in a beautiful location. Non-climbing activities include nearby international-level mountain biking in Purple Valley as well as paddleboard and kayak rentals.

Nik Hoediono, first lead at re-opened Croker, "Ivy League"

Cape Croker has been operated by the Chippewas of Nawash Unceded First Nation since its inception as a park in 1967, protecting its intrinsic beauty and generating on-Reserve employment. The Ontario Access Coalition, through portfolio managers Drs. Harry Hoediono and Patrick Lam, spent most of 2015 negotiating with Park officials and the Band Council, and reached an agreement about re-opening the Park to climbing this spring. Gus Alexandropoulos provided invaluable support in the form of guidebook recognition and advertising donations.

The Cape Croker re-opening illustrates how eco-friendly citizens (the OAC, BTC and First Nations Band Council) can work together to promote eco-tourism and eco-sport on the Bruce Peninsula.

Josiah Keeshig (office), Nathan Keeshig (Park Superintendent), Harry Hoediono

After the official re-opening, Dr. Hoediono met with new Park Superintendent Nathan Keeshig and discussed steps forward: signage, waivers to measure climber usage, and cliff cleanups. They also agreed to hold future meetings on promoting rock climbing as one of the Park’s eco-friendly adventure sports. Dr. Hoediono and helpers also carried out the thankless tasks needed to maintain a climbing site, including trimming vegetation and inspecting in-situ gear.

Please enjoy climbing at Cape Croker, heed all posted signs, climb with care, and be respectful of the privilege of climbing in such a beautiful area.

As presented at our 2016 AGM:

OAC Access Sends, 2015-2016 [.pdf]

The 4th Annual Beaver Valley Climbing Festival is coming soon! Join hundreds of other climbers on July 15-17th, enjoy the festivities on Saturday night as well as Beaver Valley climbing on Saturday and Sunday, all while supporting the Ontario Access Coalition. The price of $44 includes Saturday dinner, camping, clinics, and Sunday breakfast. We hope to see you there!

The BVCF web page is at https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/bvcf-2016, and you can sign up there.

PS: The Ontario Access Coalition Annual General Meeting is June 27 at The Rock Oasis Toronto, 7:30PM. There may be highly desirable door prizes.

The Ontario Access Coalition is thrilled to announce that climbing at Cape Croker has been re-opened effective immediately!

Access to the cliffs at Cape Croker is through the property of the Chippewas of Nawash First Nation. As always, climbing on other peoples’ lands is a privilege, not a right. Please be on your best behaviour. In particular, tread quietly and lightly, respect the OAC Code of Ethics, and adhere to Leave No Trace principles. This will help preserve access for future generations.

If you need overnight accommodation in the area, consider camping at Cape Croker Park, which is owned and operated by the Chipppewas.

Many thanks are due to Dr. Harry Hoediono, who negotiated on behalf of the OAC. We would also like to thank Gus Alexandropoulos for his generous offer of a free full-page ad for Cape Croker Park in his upcoming Volume 2 guidebook, which was instrumental in getting Croker re-opened.

Harry Hoediono on Holy Roller; credit Zach Treanor

We’ve received questions about the OAC Approved program and the new Ontario Climbing: Volume 1, Southern Escarpment guidebook’s inclusion of closed areas.

credit: Gus Alexandropoulos

Gus Alexandropoulos and Justin Dwyer have produced an well-researched and comprehensive guidebook. This guidebook furthers the goals of the OAC by including accurate access information, educating climbers about best practices at the crag, and advocating that climbers follow these practices. We’re pleased to endorse this guidebook as being OAC Approved.

Some climbers have asked about the guidebook’s inclusion of closed crags. Our position is that the closed crags are clearly identified as such and that the guidebook authors are in no way advocating that climbers visit these crags. Of course these crags exist. We even list the fact that they exist on our crag status document. In the guidebook, the authors argue that describing closed crags has two positive effects: 1) it documents historic practices (climbing has long been practiced in Ontario); and 2) it encourages climbers to work towards getting these areas re-opened. Closed crags can re-open, and when they do, having them in the guidebook is helpful. A recent example is Roadside at the Red River Gorge. The OAC Board of Directors agrees with this reasoning.

We’d be happy to discuss this at greater length. Feel free to send us an email at info@ontarioaccesscoalition.com or find an OAC Board member at one of our upcoming events!