Our News

Only one of you has been here before? That person was so thoughtful to bring everyone along on this cool outing.

Oh, this is a few folks’ first time to the area? Well, Tony and Randy have rappelled before and I’m sure all of you can lead… Wait, do you all know how to ascend a fixed line? What about self rescue? Ok… I’m sure the most experienced climber will take time out from their proj to teach everyone how to safely ascend a fixed line when the weather changes, build anchors for everyone, and haul Suzie up the side of a cliff when she realizes she’s forgotten her epipen after climbing too close to that beehive. That guy knows how to do it all right? He went on a few road trips and climbs 5.12 so he must know what’s up. It is a really great idea to go the bottom of a big cliff with them. What could possibly go wrong?

If you don’t have the experience to go, get it before you go. Lion’s Head is not the place to learn. Can’t lead climb, set anchors, clean, rap, ascend a fixed line, self-rescue and communicate without talking (no really, for real, the wind can get super loud)? You need to learn this BEFORE you head to Lion’s Head.

Photo credit: Garry Knight @ Flickr, CC-BY-2.0.

Need to shed a few crucial pounds for the send? Do you hear the call of nature? Does it sound like last night’s chili?

Here’s the step by step basics… Find a private spot away from the crag and the trail. Dig or kick a hole in the dirt with your shoes. Do you business. Bury your business and any associates that decompose. Camouflage the spot so no one will ever know. Go back to sending 5 pounds lighter. For more info on leaving no trace check out http://www.leavenotrace.ca/principles and the Access Fund’s poop infographic (click to enlarge).

An important message from a community member, Mike Penney. Please read before visiting Lion’s Head this long weekend.

Climber Friends,

If you’re thinking of visiting Lion’s Head this long weekend, please follow the Lion’s Head Best Practices below. Let’s pull together and collectively work to save this precious resource.

Lion’s Head Best Practices:
– Please do not tailgate on Moore Street or in the Bruce parking lot.
– Please arrive at the trailhead organized. Grab your stuff, fist bump your friends and quietly head in for an awesome day of climbing.
– SMILE and say hello to anyone walking, running or biking on Moore Street. Chances are they are local cottagers unsure about climbers.
– Slow down when driving on Moore Street… You’ll get there… I promise.
– Do not bushwhack. Use only the main trail.
– When speaking to locals in town, if climbing comes up, stress that climbing is very safe when performed properly and responsibly. As a group we look out for each other and our #1 priority is taking care of our community and staying safe.
– Pick up any garbage along the trail – both at the top and bottom of the cliff
– Learn how to go to the bathroom in the woods. Bury your waste and leave no trace (or, better yet, go before you get there!).
– If you’re going to sleep in your car/van, do your research. There are plenty of areas to park minutes OUTSIDE the town on Crown land.
– If you arrive in a large group, split up and swap partners periodically. You’ll get more done in pairs anyway.
– Stay Safe. Accidents happen, but not at LH! Be diligent, help others and leave your ego at the trailhead.
– If you see anyone conducting destructive behavior, please speak up and let them know they are endangering future climbing access
– If you see anyone from MNR, NEC or the Park, please let the OAC know (info@ontarioaccesscoalition.com) and in turn refer them to the OAC should they have any questions.
– Have fun!

An important message from a community member, Mike Penney. Please read before visiting Lion’s Head this long weekend.

Climber Friends,

If you’re thinking of visiting Lion’s Head this long weekend, please follow the Lion’s Head Best Practices below. Let’s pull together and collectively work to save this precious resource.

Lion’s Head Best Practices:
– Please do not tailgate on Moore Street or in the Bruce parking lot.
– Please arrive at the trailhead organized. Grab your stuff, fist bump your friends and quietly head in for an awesome day of climbing.
– SMILE and say hello to anyone walking, running or biking on Moore Street. Chances are they are local cottagers unsure about climbers.
– Slow down when driving on Moore Street… You’ll get there… I promise.
– Do not bushwhack. Use only the main trail.
– When speaking to locals in town, if climbing comes up, stress that climbing is very safe when performed properly and responsibly. As a group we look out for each other and our #1 priority is taking care of our community and staying safe.
– Pick up any garbage along the trail – both at the top and bottom of the cliff
– Learn how to go to the bathroom in the woods. Bury your waste and leave no trace (or, better yet, go before you get there!).
– If you’re going to sleep in your car/van, do your research. There are plenty of areas to park minutes OUTSIDE the town on Crown land.
– If you arrive in a large group, split up and swap partners periodically. You’ll get more done in pairs anyway.
– Stay Safe. Accidents happen, but not at LH! Be diligent, help others and leave your ego at the trailhead.
– If you see anyone conducting destructive behavior, please speak up and let them know they are endangering future climbing access
– If you see anyone from MNR, NEC or the Park, please let the OAC know (info@ontarioaccesscoalition.com) and in turn refer them to the OAC should they have any questions.
– Have fun!

Access to climbing at Lion’s Head has been threatened for several years. Recently the MNR has begun recording cliff face data using drone flights to assess climber impact. Additionally, the OAC was made aware that camping in inappropriate areas has increased, further threatening an already tenuous position.

On July 23, 2016 we tried a new approach to make climbers aware of the potential increase of this threat. We posted a meme and heard from many passionate climbers who felt the post was inappropriate. We now realize that it was out of line for the OAC, and we sincerely apologize. For future posts, we will strive to act as champions of the Ontario climbing community in a more respectful and less contentious way.

During the next few weeks the OAC will continue its meme campaign to educate local climbers as well as local citizens. The challenges presented to the Lion’s Head climbing community are significant. The OAC cannot achieve its goal of securing access to one of North America’s most beautiful climbing areas without your support. It is our hope and belief that we can move forward together to attain this goal.

Access to climbing at Lion’s Head has been threatened for several years. Recently the MNR has begun recording cliff face data using drone flights to assess climber impact. Additionally, the OAC was made aware that camping in inappropriate areas has increased, further threatening an already tenuous position.

On July 23, 2016 we tried a new approach to make climbers aware of the potential increase of this threat. We posted a meme and heard from many passionate climbers who felt the post was inappropriate. We now realize that it was out of line for the OAC, and we sincerely apologize. For future posts, we will strive to act as champions of the Ontario climbing community in a more respectful and less contentious way.

During the next few weeks the OAC will continue its meme campaign to educate local climbers as well as local citizens. The challenges presented to the Lion’s Head climbing community are significant. The OAC cannot achieve its goal of securing access to one of North America’s most beautiful climbing areas without your support. It is our hope and belief that we can move forward together to attain this goal.

EDIT: Climbing has been re-opened as of July 29, 2016. Climbers must sign the Code of Conduct before climbing at Bon Echo.

Bon Echo Code of Conduct

We are passing along the following message from the Alpine Club of Canada, Toronto Section.

The Superintendent of Bon Echo Provincial Park has informed the Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section that starting immediately all climbing has been suspended until further notice.

The suspension was a result of a recent incident, and no one was hurt. The board of the Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section and the Bon Echo Committee are collaborating closely with the Park to open access as soon as possible.

Weekends at the Bon Echo hut are subsequently canceled until further notice.

Until the matter is resolved please respect the wishes of the Park and refrain from climbing at Bon Echo. We will let you know as soon as the suspension is lifted.

We appreciate your cooperation and we look forward to climbing at Bon Echo again soon. If you have any questions please contact either the Board of Directors (membership@alpineclubtoronto.ca) or the Bon Echo committee (bonecho@alpineclubtoronto.ca).

Sincerely,
The Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section Board of Directors